A walk around Cortona

Cortona

Cortona is a medieval hilltop town in Tuscany, Italy. Situated in the south east of Tuscany, from its walls one has views of the extensive Val di Chiana towards Montepulciano and over Lake Trasimeno into Umbria. It has now become a very popular tourist destination since the publication of Frances Mayes book Under The Tuscan Sun. In her book Mayes describes how she purchased and restored a villa on the edge of Cortona coming to know many of the townspeople in the process.

There has been a settlement at Cortona since the pre-Roman Etruscan times. The huge stones used by the Etruscans are still visible at the base of town’s walls. Outside the town are several Etruscan tombs that have been excavated and can now be visited. The town itself boasts a fascinating Etruscan museum full of artefacts found in the area including an amazing bronze chandelier of the Etruscan period..

Nowadays the town, built on a hillside, centres on the Piazza della Repubblicca which is dominated by the very picturesque Palazzo Communale. This palazzo, with its tall clock tower and impressive flight of steps to the front door, dates from the 1300s and has been used as the town hall since then. Inside is a grand sala, very popular for weddings. From this piazza roads lead off in all directions. Take the road to the right of the palazzo into Piazza Signorelli, the site in summer months for outdoor concerts and operas. The Etruscan museum is in this square and well worth a look.

Follow signs to the Duomo and the town’s cathedral is soon on your right. Opposite is the small town art gallery the “Museo Diocesano”, most famous for its wonderful altarpiece depicting the annunciation by Fra Angelico. It also has paintings by Luca Signorelli, Cortona’s most famous painter. Taking the small meandering streets leading from Duomo one comes to Via Ianelli. This little street of overhanging houses with their “sportelli” holding up the upper floors, looks very much as the whole of Cortona would have done in medieval times. The overhamgs were removed from most houses to allow more light into the streets.

Starting again in the Piazza della Repubblicca and taking the steps that lead upwards one passes on the left the church of San Francesco, the first Franciscan church to be built outside Assisi. Continuing the ascent one soon comes to a very pretty square, actually triangular in shape and with a little green in the middle surrounded by ilex trees. Keep going up and the church of Santa Margherita is soon towering above you. There are wonderful views here down over Cortona and across the plain of the Val di Chiana. From here one can make a short detour to visit the Medici Fortress high above Santa Margherita.

Cortona is a lovely town in which to while away a day or just an afternoon. The Piazza della Repubblicca has pavement cafes where one can enjoy a drink and the medieval splendour of the surroundings. The Via Nazionale, the only straight road leading off from the Piazza della Repubblicca also has pavement cafes and is the main, but by no means only, shopping street of Cortona. There are many good restaurants and pizzerias throughout the town.

To get to Cortona by car take the A1 from Rome or Florence and come off at the Val di Chiana, following signs to Cortona. By train: The nearest station is Terontola-Cortona, a 10 minute taxi journey from the town (there are also buses). Terontola-Cortona is a station on the main line between Florence and Rome.

For a thorough and informative guided walk round the town see Martin Daykin’s Circular Walks. http://www.tuscanyumbriawalks.com For holiday and vacation rentals of villas, farmhouses and apartments please visit: http://www.tuscanyumbria.com